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Plaza de Toros

Silvina and I took a tour of the plaza de toros in Sevilla which included a visit to the museum and gallery that are located under the seats, as well the capilla (chapel) where the matadores go to pray before entering. Did you know that they have their own “hospital” on-site? I didn’t, but it certainly makes sense. Nor did I know that the corrida de toros had its origins in the Middle Ages, or that one of their suits can weigh more than thirty pounds (15kg)! The tour guide was incredibly informative, eloquent, and friendly. The museum, while appealing to my interests in history and art, ultimately made my stomach turn. When I see depictions of the bull with banderillas (smaller, hand-held spears) sticking out of its body, or the horse lying wounded on the ground in front of the bull, the first thing I see is unnecessary slaughter and pain for entertainment. This was really the only way I could enter the plaza de toros . . . empty.

    

Museo de Bellas Artes

There was a gem of a museum located two blocks away from our hostel, brimming with the works of Francisco de Zurbarán, Juan de Mesa, Gonzalo Bilbao, and the famous portrait of Gustavo Adolfo Bécquer. With an entrance fee of €1.50, it’s a steal! You also get the added benefit of enjoying the ambience and architecture of the seventeenth-century church that forms the majority of the museum’s galleries and patios.

Alcázar de los reyes (above)

This is phenomenal. If the Alhambra inspired M.C. Escher, I wonder what might have become of him had he visited Seville!? The interlaced geometric patterns that nearly cover the surface of this Mudejar fortress are so intricate. Some of them are carved, some are fitted tiles, and others are painted. The Arabic word for God — Allah — is scrolled along the walls, doors, and ceilings.

  

The transformations that were made by the Catholic Kings are visible in the images of animals and the official emblems of the medieval kingdoms, Aragón y Castilla, which were united upon their marriage. The gardens are extensive, although I was surprised to hear that they were significantly expanded in the 1950s. Underneath one of the main patios exists a series of baths, which were supposedly created by King Pedro I at the behest of his mistress, María de Padillas. Hence, the name Los Baños de Doña María de Padillas, (pictured below).

 

 

La Plaza de España

“A long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away…” Luke Skywalker and Princess Leah walked along this plaza in  Star Wars Episode II: Attack of the Clones. (Here’s a link with Spanish dubbing, if you’d like.) For each province in the country, there is a small alcove tiled with a pastoral scene and a map. I was more interested in watching other people interact — perhaps that’s a bit creepy — and the late afternoon sun playing on the buildings.

  

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It’s 35 degrees (95 F) here in Sevilla and it’ll only get hotter. . .

Unlike Italy, my stay in Spain has more to do with the academic side of things. I did some preliminary research and got registered at the Archivo General de Indias so I could consult a few documents before I leave. Sadly, two of the three files that I was looking for are in reproducción, which means that they are being digitized. While that sounds like good news, I was told that the file eventually had to make its way to Madrid, which can mean 2 months to a year of waiting before I have online access. (Sigh.) I’m going to see what else might be of use to consult.

With my “free” afternoon, I went to the Catedral de Santa María de la Sede de Sevilla to marvel. The tomb of Christopher Columbus, regardless of my personal feelings towards his legacy, was a spectacularly detailed monument. He is carried by four men, each adorned with the symbol of one of the four medieval kingdoms: Castilla (the castle), León (the lion), Navarra (the constellation looking shield), and Aragón (the bands/stripes). His remains have also had quite a journey to this current resting place. He died in Valladolid, and was later placed in Sevilla. He was then taken across the Atlantic to be interred on the island of Española, until the French captured the island and he was taken to Cuba. Once Cuba was no longer a colony of Spain his remains were transferred again to Sevilla, to the tomb you see below:

I spent over two hours in the cathedral and I don’t think that I got to see everything. There is an enormous treasury, a patio of orange trees (an area once occupied by a patio in the original mosque), a smaller temple/church incorporated into the cathedral, and so many adorned doorways that I got turned around. At this point my attention span started to dwindle, so I decided to climb the tower. It’s mostly an inclined ramp all the way — 47m elevation gain — up to the lookout.

 

But what would all this walking, sightseeing, and document not-finding be without some delicious tapas?! The Bodega Sta. Cruz (“Las Columnas”) was a nice place to relax. The food is reasonable (order at the bar), the beer is cold, but the highlight is listening to the barmen bicker and talk to you about the people a few feet away. Turn left as you exit and explore some of the smaller alleyways and the Jewish quarter below:

 

Oh, and did I mention that I love Andalucía?

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