It’s 35 degrees (95 F) here in Sevilla and it’ll only get hotter. . .
Unlike Italy, my stay in Spain has more to do with the academic side of things. I did some preliminary research and got registered at the Archivo General de Indias so I could consult a few documents before I leave. Sadly, two of the three files that I was looking for are in reproducción, which means that they are being digitized. While that sounds like good news, I was told that the file eventually had to make its way to Madrid, which can mean 2 months to a year of waiting before I have online access. (Sigh.) I’m going to see what else might be of use to consult.
With my “free” afternoon, I went to the Catedral de Santa María de la Sede de Sevilla to marvel. The tomb of Christopher Columbus, regardless of my personal feelings towards his legacy, was a spectacularly detailed monument. He is carried by four men, each adorned with the symbol of one of the four medieval kingdoms: Castilla (the castle), León (the lion), Navarra (the constellation looking shield), and Aragón (the bands/stripes). His remains have also had quite a journey to this current resting place. He died in Valladolid, and was later placed in Sevilla. He was then taken across the Atlantic to be interred on the island of Española, until the French captured the island and he was taken to Cuba. Once Cuba was no longer a colony of Spain his remains were transferred again to Sevilla, to the tomb you see below:
I spent over two hours in the cathedral and I don’t think that I got to see everything. There is an enormous treasury, a patio of orange trees (an area once occupied by a patio in the original mosque), a smaller temple/church incorporated into the cathedral, and so many adorned doorways that I got turned around. At this point my attention span started to dwindle, so I decided to climb the tower. It’s mostly an inclined ramp all the way — 47m elevation gain — up to the lookout.
But what would all this walking, sightseeing, and document not-finding be without some delicious tapas?! The Bodega Sta. Cruz (“Las Columnas”) was a nice place to relax. The food is reasonable (order at the bar), the beer is cold, but the highlight is listening to the barmen bicker and talk to you about the people a few feet away. Turn left as you exit and explore some of the smaller alleyways and the Jewish quarter below:
Oh, and did I mention that I love Andalucía?